ALL RUSSIAN EXHIBITION CENTER (VVTs)

For a concentrated illustration of the ego-led folly of Stalin-era architecture, the All Russian Exhibition Center or VVTs – formerly the VDNKh – is hard to beat. The massive, garishly decorated pavilions were built to house the 1939 All-Union Agricultural Exhibition. Originally, the exposition of socialism's success was to have opened in 1937 but unfortunately had to be postponed after Stalin purged a large chunk of the organizing committee.

Today the great halls celebrating the wonder of the Ukrainian harvest (designed during the time of the famine), Gulag construction projects and other soviet marvels are full of tinpot salesmen. During summer, sit outside at one of the many beer tents amid the center's monumental gates and fountains. Note that between the nearby VDNKh metro station and the park is the soaring monument celebrating Yury Gagarin's space journey. Also just outside the venue is the famous Worker and Collective Farm Girl statue.

The park is open daily between 10a.m. and 9 p.m. and is free.

BORODINO PANORAMA

The Borodino Panorama commemorates just one episode during Moscow's often tragic past. Located not far from the city center, the great blue circular pavilion was opened in 1962 on the 150th anniversary of the clash between the Russians and Napoleon's troops that took place at Borodino, west of the capital. Although neither side could declare victory, the battle was unprecedented in its brutality and marked a new mode of warfare. During the course of 15 hours, 30,000 French and 40,000 Russians were killed. The 115-meter panorama by painter Franz Roubaud depicts the battle from the perspective of surrounded Russian troops in the village of Semyonovskaya. Get to the memorial via the Kutuzovskaya metro station.

Central Moscow

Walking from Revolution Square, past Gosplan, the Hall of Columns, the Bolshoi Theatre and the Metropole Hotel up Nikol'skaya, one comes to the Detskii Mir (Children's World) store and, across from it, the large building on Lubyanka Square(until 1991 Dzerzhinskii Square), which was built as the flagship of an insurance company and after 1917 became the headquarters of the KGB, with its notorious Lubyanka prison. Lubyanka Square merges into New Square where the Communist Party and the Komsomol (Young Communist League) had their headquarters until 1991.

The Bolshoi Theatre,built in 1780 on Theatrical (in Soviet times, Sverdlov) Square, was Moscow's first permanent theatre. It burnt down in 1805 and again in 1853. The present building was completed in 1856. It seats 2,300, but only about 800 scats give perfect vision.

To the right of the Bolshoi Theatre, when facing it, is TsUM(Central Universal Stores – 1905). Close by arc the Malyi Theatreand the Central Children's Theatre,plus the recently refurbished and extremely luxurious Metropole Hotel,the temporary seat of the Soviet government from 1918 to 1920. Behind the Metropole is the only remaining section of the red Kitaigorod walls. To its right, beyond the Teatral'naya metro station was the Central Lenin Museum, which is being refurbished for the City Duma.

To the left of the Bolshoi Theatre, when facing it, is the former Noblemen's Club, with the Hall of Columnswhere Stalin and later leaders lay in state and where world championship chess matches were staged. Then we come to the foot of Tverskaya(formerly Gorkii) Street,which is rapidly becoming again Moscow's main shopping street. A walk up Tverskaya reveals 1 9thcentury palaces, 1930's apartment blocks and glimmers of colour bouncing of the domes of half-obscured churches, as well as a great deal of reconstruction of the large ground floor shops. At Pushkin Square,it also features the first of Moscow's now live McDonalds, opened in 1991 and the largest in the world. Just further up Tverskaya is the Museum of the Revolution,which is well worth a visit-now that it is trying hard to give an objective picture of both the bolsheviks and their opponents. It is housed in the former English Club. Mayakovsky Square,where Tverskaya crosses the Garden ring – the boundary of inner Moscow, is the location of the Tchaikovsky Concert Hallwith its magnificent acoustics and two leading theatres.

Along Mokhovaya Street, looking across to the Alexander Gardens of the Kremlin and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and Eternal Flame, is the first building of Moscow University,with a further such building beyond Gertsen Street, fronted by a statue of the university's founder Lomonosov, erected on its bicentenary in 1955. Opposite it in the middle of Manege Square is the Manege,pre-Revolution Riding School – a large yellow building with eighty white columns and a vast interior with no supports – used from 1957 as Moscow Central Art Exhibition Hall.Nearby are the Pushkin Art Galleryand Pashkov's House,the old building of the Russia’s Library, which is one of the most splendid examples of late eighteenth century Moscow classicism. Also close by, the vast Church of Christ the Saviour,blown up by the Soviets to make way for a Palace of Congresses which it was impossible to construct, is rebuilt on its former site - until recently an enormous heated open-air swimming pool which shrouded the area in steam every winter.

Across the river by the Great Stone Bridgewe fairly quickly come to the Tretyakov Gallery,which rivals St Petersburg's Russian Museum in its magnificent collection of Russian art. The low red building built by Vasnetsov in 1880 looks like something from a Russian fairy tale. Apart from a priceless collection of Russian and Byzantine icons, the gallery houses a brilliant array of the works of 19th century masters.

The Arbat,once the quarter of court artisans, is also a good place for a stroll in daylight hours. Many elegant buildings were restored in the late 80's and it became a pedestrian precinct complete with buskers and souvenir-sellers.

Moving out from the centre, we come to the main buildings of Moscow University on the Sparrow(once Lenin) Hills.The most striking is the Stalinist wedding-cake-style central building completed in 1953. Its main structure is 36 storeys high and the best view in Moscow is from the top of its 235-metre high tower which is surmounted by a star weighing twelve tons. It is separated by vast courtyards from 18-storey and 9-storey wings which provide student dormitories with more than 6,000 rooms, housing some of it; 40,000-plus students. The central building houses the university's administration, lecture theatres and laboratories for several departments, the science library and museum, an assembly hall seating 1,272, gymnasia, a large swimming pool, a community centre and several restaurants and shops. In front of the university, along the river bank, there is also a fine view of the city and the Luzniki sports complex, opened in 1956. The Stadiumseats 100,000 spectators. Further facilities were constructed for the 1980 Olympic Games.

Not far away is the vast Children's (until 1991, Pioneers') Palace,built m 1962, which provided opportunities for children to develop their abilities and talents in science, technology and art, with facilities for, and expert instruction in, virtually any hobby.

Impressions of Moscow

Millions of people visit Moscow every year. It attracts scores of tourists and business people. Here some of them share their impressions of Moscow with The Moscow News reporter.

· Comment on these interviews.

· Compare the answers to the same questions.

· Give your own impressions of Moscow.

· Make your groupmates answer the same questions and give comments.

Matteo Guacelli, 31 years old From: Italy, In Moscow: 5 months, chemist

– What was your first impression of Moscow?

– The downtown is a kind of precious collection of many charming buildings of the past, with many exciting venues and corners. Outside the Sadovoe koltso it looks like a continuous construction site. Another thing striking from the first glance is that people are always hurrying. There are very few people just walking. Normally they are almost running.

– What was the biggest shock for you here?

– The subway. The Moscow metro isas beautiful as it is described. Marble columns, stained-glass windows, bronze statues, mosaics, lots of light. Also I have never seen so many people rushing down the escalators. And finally, I was surprised that nobody pays attention if a pregnant woman or an old lady is standing.

– Is there anything you couldn't get used to in Moscow?

– All that was a shock, those contrasts are still strange and striking for me. Actually, this city is all about contrasts.

– What do you lack in Moscow?

– Sun. Smiling people.

– What's the loveliest feature of this city?

– It's endless. I haven't even managed to visit all theaters here yet!

 

Barbara Roetscher, 57 years old From: Germany, In Moscow: 3 weeks, artist

– How would you describe Moscow in a single word?

– Picturesque,

– What's the loveliest feature of this city?

– Mix of styles. Various people, wearing all you can imagine (too much of black, though), old, modern and post modern architecture, strange sites. I like that Moscow seems to be very heterogeneous.

– What was the biggest shock for you here?

– The amount of people on the streets. Crowds, crowds and crowds.

Nara Ferreira, 40 years old, From Brazil, in Moscow: 2 weeks, radio journalist

– What was your first impression of Moscow?

– My first impression was that this is a very big, even huge city, with people running very fast. I love the churches, they are very beautiful. Concerning the inner side, I think Moscow is very similar to Brazil. Great possibilities in the future, but serious problems to be solved.

– What was your biggest shock in Moscow?

– The amount of people in the metro, especially in rush hours, I can't imagine how an old person, a pregnant woman or a kid can be there!

– Is there anything your compatriots wouldn't believe in if you told them?

– The number of limousines in the streets probably. It's so capitalistic, you know.

Daniel Richardson, 54 years old, From: The USA, In Moscow:
5 months, engineer

– What was your first impression of Moscow?

– The traffic. Heavy traffic and traffic jams.

– How would you describe Moscow in a single word?

– Fascinating.

– What would your friends in the US find hard to believe about Moscow?

– Quite a bit. First, the Moscow metro system, it's very advanced. It's just amazing. You can get to any part of the city! Then, the general amount of traffic. And what's more, say, those small rynoks (markets) in the streets.

 

Maria Ramner, 25 years old, from Switzerland, manager

– What was your first impression of Moscow?

– You need a very long time to see it all.

– What was the biggest shock for you here?

– There are so many beautiful women! Of course, European ladies are stylish, and pretty, and look after themselves carefully. But the fact is that Moscow beats Europe with the variety of all types of appearances and shapes, there is no typical-looking Muscovite. And then, it looks like mostly local women even do not need expensive make-up or dresses, they are naturally attractive. I was amazed, sincerely. This is quite strange for me, and every single day I can't help noticing it again.

– Is there anything about Moscow your compatriots wouldn't believe?

– That I feel safe here. Of course it's not quiet, but it is no more dangerous than in any other big city.

– What is the biggest difference between Moscow and the place where you come from?

– The scale of everything. To cross half of Switzerland you need as much time as to get from Moscow to a country house, and we should of course take account of traffic jams. These terrific Stalin high buildings, eight-lane highways, the highest apartment house In Europe, every thing is huge. Maybe Moscow is kind of New York or Chicago shifted to our continent.

– What's the loveliest feature of this city?

– Its diversity.

– Would you agree that Moscow is expensive in general?

– No. European products, such as outfits, watches, jewelry are more expensive, but that's evident. Food, transportation (doesn't matter public or private) and many other subjects are cheap. On the other hand, prices are on par with the most famous European capitals.

– How would you describe Moscow with a single word?

– Stunning.

Simon Philipps, 26 years old, from Germany, student of physics

– What was your first impression of Moscow?

– It's huge and permanently noisy. But beautiful and lively. For the first moment I was surprised a little bit that people in the streets mostly look gloomy and concentrated on their thoughts but later I realized that it is Moscow pace of life which makes them look this way. Generally Muscovites are not too welcoming, but when you see them relaxing in a club or get to know them closer, the impression changes.

– What was the biggest shock for you here?

– Moscow looks much more European than I expected.

– Is there anything you couldn't get used to in Moscow?

– The manner of driving. And that there are so many police in the streets and especially too much traffic police. I do not see any sense in it, at least all those officers are not concerned about their duties. Maybe without road police there would be less traffic jams and accidents.

– What is the biggest difference between Moscow and the place where you come from?

– The pace of life. We do not hurry anywhere as you Muscovites always do, we do not run, and we are much more polite. It's common here that someone can push you and just move on without any excuse.

– Do you think the Russian mentality has any particularities?

– As I mentioned, people are not afraid to be late, it seems you can't offend your friends or colleagues, while in Germany this could be considered a serious problem. Also Russians, in my opinion, are capable of solving things in a very short time, instead of preparing them in advance. That's neither bad nor good, that’s just what I've noticed.

– What's the loveliest feature of this city?

– People running down moving staircases in the metro.

– What is your favorite place in Moscow?

– There are many places in the central part of Moscow which I liked. Say, the park on the island close to the Tretyakov gallery. The sculptures of sins are ugly, but the place itself is nice. Also I like VDNKH with its Soviet symbols.

 

The Kremlin